The Mali Conflict and Kind Strangers

As I exit my hut after a nice long  bucket shower I see two toubabs (foreigners) chatting with my family in our compound... who could they be? There are rarely white people in my vil, and if there are, they are almost always Peace Corps volunteers. 

Hello! I say. Bonjour, the man replies.

He and his wife are showing my family a map with the words Route Meridian written across it, along with a bunch of signatures in a million different languages.

I discover that these two adventurous travelers are making their way from France to Ghana completely on foot. That's right, WALKING the entire way. Never once getting in a car or bus. They call their adventure Route Meridian because both their starting point in France and their ending point in Accra, the capital of Ghana are on the same Meridian line. They started walking in July and will likely finish almost a year later! They rely solely on the kindness of strangers for places to sleep and shower. All along the way people welcome them into their homes and share meals and stories with them.

It makes me think about how much good and generosity there is in the world. It is easy to forget with things like the rampant malnutrition and the political turmoil people experience here in Africa, but I truly believe that people are innately good, and have sure found proof of that being so welcomed into my community here in Senegal, even as this foreign American who makes plenty of cultural blunders and struggles to understand the language.

The French travelers had met my host father walking through our village, and were invited to stay the night. They were utterly exhausted from months of walking, yet when my host brother Pape asked them for help on his Spanish homework, they happily obliged. Instruction in Senegalese schools is given in French, so they were able to converse using that, but my Mom Nene wanted to know what they were saying so I asked them in English then translated into Mandinka. Then Jun, the Japanese volunteer that lives in my village came to meet them. The travelers had picked up some Wolof, the national language of Senegal. That hour we were able to all communicate with many translations between English, French, Mandinka, Wolof, and Spanish. It was pretty incredible hearing so many languages and it felt good that I speak a little bit of each of them!

I don't have any way to get news or current events in village, except for word of mouth, but Peace Corps is keeping us up to date on the war in Northern Mali and any concerns they have for our safety. As many of you know, Islamic Extremists have been rallying in Northern Africa and are attempting to take over Mali. From CNN.com, 
"Islamic extremists carved out a large portion of northern Mali last year, taking advantage of a chaotic situation after a military coup. They banned music, smoking, drinking and watching sports on television, and destroyed historic tombs and shrines in the region." 
France has sent troops to aid Mali and other countries are currently becoming involved. Although Senegal borders Mali, the conflict has not moved south and as of now we are not involved aside from sending 200 troops and donating $2 million dollars to aid the international effort against the extremists. 

Senegal has one of the most peaceful and stable governments in West Africa, and Senegalese have a long history of practicing moderate and peaceful Islam. Senegal has never taken well to radical Muslim views and extremists have always been pushed out.

Right now I feel completely safe in my village. The Peace Corps Safety and Security team is monitoring the conflict vigilantly and they have notified us that as of now there is nothing to worry about, we should remain cautious and they will contact us immediately if something changes. Peace Corps will not hesitate to evacuate us if they think we are in any danger. As of now that does not seem likely, but if the conflict starts moving closer to Senegal, it may be a reality. 

In the past few years most of the volunteers in the counties surrounding us have been evacuated and everything has gone smoothly. Many current volunteers here in Senegal are evacuees from Mali, Mauritania, Niger, etc. Peace Corps always airs on the side of caution in terms of consolidations and evacuations and I am in extremely capable hands! Living in a small village where everyone knows me and cares for me like a daughter, I am really in the safest place I can be.

The last email Safety and Security sent us explains, "French and Malian troops have re-taken the towns of Diabaly, Konna and Douentza.  France has about 2400 troops in Mali. The US and UK are aiding the French by transporting troops and materials, and by offering intelligence. French warplanes have continued a strategic bombing campaign of militant strongholds. A palace built by former Libyan ruler Moammar Kaddafi which was being used as a headquarters by militants in Timbuktu was reportedly destroyed in a French air raid along with caches of weapons and fuel.   Air raids have targeted militants near the northern city of Gao as well. French troops continue to expand their ground campaign, and have been joined by troops from several other West Africa nations, including Senegal. There have been no other confirmed reports of casualties among French and Malian forces. Thousands of refugees continue to flee the fighting. Malian troops have been accused of human rights abuses (including executions) of Touaregs and Arabs in the Sevare area."

Here is a link the the CNN article from today http://edition.cnn.com/2013/01/31/world/africa/mali-conflict/index.html

Don't hesitate to email me if you have any questions! thomas.lauren.nicole@gmail.com

Much love and Peace to all my people.

Here are a couple recent photos:

The adorable pup that has become my friend.

Ridiculously cute chubby baby.

My sweet cousins.

My host father and I on Gamou, a Senegalese holiday celebrating the birth of a Muslim prophet.

When Nicky's parents came to visit Maleme Niani.