"Why not go out on a limb? That's where the fruit is." - Will Rogers

Wednesday, November 28, 2012

Mandinka Dialogue: Video



Here is a short video of Sam and I speaking in Mandinka!

Translation:
L: Hello, peace be with you!
S: And peace to you.
L: How are you/is there any evil?
S: All good, no evil.
L: What is sweet?
S: Nothing much.
L: Thanks to Allah.
S: Thanks to Allah.
L: How is your garden?
S: My garden is very big. Hot Pepper and Bissap and Onions are there.
S: How many siblings do you have?
L: In Senegal, I have 5 siblings. Their names are Abdou, Diarra, Bainsa, Mabintu, and Basekou.
S: Troublemaker Basekou!
L: Troublemaker Basekou.

Monday, November 19, 2012

Why am I here?

Now that training is almost over I will reflect a bit on the positives and negatives of being a Peace Corps Volunteer in Senegal! I will swear in as an official volunteer on November 30th (after hopefully passing a Language Proficiency Exam and Agroforestry Technical Exam)!

The major challenges so far:

- The heat - always sweaty, all the time. Enough said.

- Doing laundry by hand - is extremely difficult and time consuming, the women here literally spend hours upon hours almost everyday washing clothing, which brings me to ...

- Gender roles and Women's Rights - it s often difficult and disheartening to witness the role of women in the Senegalese community. Most girls are forced to drop out of school before the High School level, or never allowed to go to school because their place is in the home doing chores. My 6 year old host sister sweeps the floor, does the dishes, helps cook lunch and dinner, deals with the trash, and obediently serves her father, brother, and guests. He two older brothers have never been seen helping with chores, while my sister is constantly yelled at to clean faster and better (again, she is 6!).
I feel no animosity at all toward my brothers who get to drink tea and play soccer all day and get to go to school. They have been raised to play and relax while their sisters and mothers work all day. Every other family they know functions the same way.

- Packs of children - especially the young boys who have too much free time, chasing after me and yelling Toubab. Yesterday, a kid threw a large rock at me and it hit me in the back of the shoulder. It hurt my pride more than anything. An older girl was standing there next to him and did not scold him. Also, when we were pulling water from the well, a young boy spit on Sam.

- Language barrier - there are many languages spoken in Senegal, and I currently speak none of them well. It is difficult to gain the respect and friendship of community members when communication is such a frustrating struggle!

- Pre-service training - is hard and the days at the center are jam packed with information and void of free time. Days start promptly at 8:15am and last for 10 straight hours. Sessions range from Integrated Pest Management Theory to The Role of the Volunteer in Development, from Sexual Assault Awareness to The Ecology of Senegal. At the end of the 10th hour, it is hard to stay awake with the heat!

Despite these challenges, I am feeling more and more sure that I am doing the right thing and that my work here will be meaningful and fulfilling.

There are many positives, and so far, they outweigh the negatives:

- I will move to my village on December 1st! - so many things to look forward to - the privacy of my own toilet and backyard to shower in - finally unpacking my suitcases after two months of lugging them back and forth between the training center and my homestay - a small community that will get to know me by name and will learn to not call me Toubab or throw rocks at me - freedom to cook for myself and get nutrients I am lacking eating white rice for every meal.

- Forever a student - the amount of new knowledge I am gaining and the pace at which I am obtaining it is energizing. Learning a new language is difficult but rewarding, and makes me feel productive. I am lucky to be learning Mandinka, and not many people in the world have to opportunity to learn it the way I am!
I know lightyears more about agriculture, land management, agroforestry, and gardens and field crops than I did two months ago (probably because I came in with about nothing!). I can now identify over 30 of Senegal's local tree species by their Latin names. My profession in Mandinka is "yiri tutu la", literally, planter of trees. I like it :)

- Opportunity for change -  Senegal is definitely a developing country, and there is much room for growth. I am very interested in getting involved with the Peace Corps' SENEGAD (Senegal Gender and Development) program, working with young girls on changing gender roles and increasing equality of opportunity through girls camps, school clubs, scholarships, and seminars!

- Taranga - is the Senegalese concept of hospitality. They really take to heart the idea of loving thy neighbor, or anyone else for that matter, as a brother or sister. I could walk into basically any family compound in Senegal and be offered a meal and a place to sleep, no matter how little food or space is available.

- Peace Corps/Senegal - the organization in Senegal is especially well-run and effective. We have over 250 volunteers in country and the way the program is run and connected through staff, trainings, safety and security, healthcare, summits, transportation, etc. blows my mind! The amount of time, money, and hard work that goes into operating the organization is enormous. The staff are extremely knowledgeable and passionate about development and make sure that we are producing tangible results. I feel very blessed to be placed here because Peace Corps programs can vary drastically by country.

- Support - I went into this with the feeling that my two years here in Senegal would be a daunting solitary journey. I know now that I was wrong. I feel supported on all sides from friends, family, coworkers, and Peace Corps staff here in Senegal and back at home (and in Argentina and Australia!). I have already made some great friends in my Ag stage who are really the glue keeping this whole process together. I feel connections with my language trainer, the Peace Corps medical officers, my host family, and current volunteers in my region. There are no lack of friendly and supportive peers to chat, laugh, and vent with. I have applied to be part of the volunteer-run Peer Support Network and act as a counselor to other PCVs - I hope I get it!

After two months of training, all I know for sure is... this isn't going to be easy, but it will be stimulating and rewarding - and I'm in it for the long haul!





Monday, November 5, 2012

My Home for the Next Two Years

I am in a really good place and so stoked on my permanent site placement! In December I will move to Malem Niani, in the Tambacounda region in the southeast of Senegal. Malem is considered a large village by Senegal standards (3,000 people), but it felt very small when I visited. Everyone was extremely welcoming and excited to meet the new volunteer! I am the fourth Peace Corps volunteer to serve in Malem, and I think it will be helpful that the community is already accustomed to working with Peace Corps. I just returned from spending 3 nights there for Volunteer Visit. VV used to be called "demyst" because it was a demystification of where we will be for the next two years!

Below is the Tamba region in orange. You can see the regional capital Tambacounda right above the tip of the Gambia. I am 70km up the road from Tambacounda, which I can get to fairly easily through flagging down public transit, or take a nice long bike ride on a flat paved road!


Malem is a road town and receives many travelers as it is on Route Nacional, which connects Dakar to both Mali and Guinea. My village has electricity from 7pm to 11pm every night meaning I can get cold drinks in the evening! This is a real luxury that most volunteers don't have. My home doesn't have electricity. My family (The Gory Family) is currently building me a small mud hut near their compound. When it is finished I will have my own fenced in backyard and private latrine. Half of my village speaks a dialect of Mandinka (which I am learning), and the other half of the village speaks Pulaar. This should be an interesting challenge and hopefully I will pick up some Pulaar also! Mandinka is not spoken in Dakar or Thies, so I will also have to learn some Wolof to be able to navigate public transportation. Beyond that, french is also spoken in the major cities and very useful. It looks like I am aiming to learn four languages in the next two years, I'll let you guys know how it turns out...

For Volunteer Visit I stayed with Nicky Olerich who is a current Health and Environmental Education volunteer in Malem Niani. She is from Huntington and has been in country for a little over a year and a half. I feel so lucky that I will have her to show me around for my first few months. After she finishes her service there will not be someone replacing her.

During our visit, Nicky, Adam and I took a Charette, or horse drawn cart, 12k into the bush to visit Adam's site. Adam will be living in Dawadi, a small village north of Malem. On our way there our charette popped a tire and we had to call another one. On our way back, our charette broke down again and we had to hang out for 3 hours with all our baggage half way between our sites!

I am so happy to be placed in Malem and I love the people and the environment. There are many trees and at night the stars glitter brightly in the sky; I am glad I brought my constellation guide! Because I am in a road town, we will almost always have access to fresh vegetables and eggs which is AMAZING! Most villages in Senegal don't have access to vegetables during the dry/hungry season. My families compound is literally right next door to a middle school and I am really excited to work with them on agriculture and health projects! I will be leaving my computer at the Peace Corps Regional house in Tambacounda. It is a central meeting place where all the volunteers in my region can come a couple times a month to cook food together and reboot. It slightly resembles a Fraternity house but is awesome nonetheless. During Volunteer Visit the current Tamba volunteers threw us a party and we got to meet most of the people in our region!

I definitely miss my friends and fam and it will be hard not being with you guys for Thanksgiving and Christmas! Know that I am doing well and thinking about all of you :)